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When curating a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners totally shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their humble shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at many times that figure.

The Philosophy of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at fancy restaurants. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.